Time: 13.35 zulu, July 26.
With a slow movement after our 12 hours flight we finally step outside the door of Suvarnabhumi Airport and take a first breath of thick moist air! Ahhhh, the smell of Asia, with its hundred aromas altogether! It’s incredibly humid, but quite chilled compared to those 40 something degrees we left in Bucharest.
Bangkok’s Thai name is
Krung Thep, which translates as the City of Angels, and it’s one of the strangest blends of tradition, culture, history, modernism, and habits. We stayed on
Khao San Road, a backpacker’s heaven with cheap hotels and great eating/drinking places. It’s quite a funky place, with a crazy looking crowd made mostly from European young tourists. Braided hair, tattoos and ethnic clothes make up the “uniform”, which is usually accessorized with a hippie look and very laid back attitude.
Our plan was to visit some of the top touristic spots, the “must-does”, but also to take the time and explore the day to day life of the people, from its most traditional aspects (like the floating villages) to its poshest hints (like visiting the top malls and skyscrapers).
The Grand Palace, hosting the former royal residence and several temples with exquisite details and intricate carvings. If Bangkok is the city of angels, then surely the grand palace is the Garden of Eden! For my westerner eyes it was a surreal display of green exotic gardens, majestic marble buildings, statues of fictional creatures and gold polish everywhere!
The Grand Palace, side view
Holding hands with a Kinaree, a mythical half woman half bird creature
Between the Yaksha Demons
The palace complex also hosts the holiest Buddhist temple in Thailand, Wat Phra Kaew, home of the Emerald Buddha statue. This is legendary statue believed to have been made 2.000 years ago in India, as which has been lost and found again throughout history. It’s actually made of jade not emerald, but it is covered with gold garments that the King himself replaces in every season.

A giant guardian (Dhosa Kiridhorn, half elephant, half demon)

Sitting by the temple
Wat Pho, the Temple of the Reclining Buddha was our next stop. Buddhism itself is a non-theistic religion, meaning that it does not worship a supreme creator, and Buddha is not the equivalent of the Christian God, but one who has become enlightened and has experienced Nirvana. However we saw that common people worship Buddha in what looked like a very “God like way” to us. The temples, the statues, the rituals, the pouring masses of believers looking for a blessing, a touch that brings good luck, are all completely different in appearance yet very similar in essence with what we see at home. Some things are of unseen and unusual grandeur, like the
46m long and 15m high statue of Buddha. Let me repeat:
46m high and 15m tall!!! That is HUGE, and to add up to that, the statue is all gold plated and incrusted with nacre.
The 3 girls at the temple
The giant Reclining Buddha Statue
Wat Arun means the Temple of Dawn, but oddly enough its best viewing is at sunset. I loved this place because it lacks the grandiose aspects of all the other monuments we’ve seen, it’s smaller, almost intimate. A monastery surrounds the temple, with actual monks living there, giving the whole place a serene flair. I played some time with the winds bells in the monastery garden, releasing crystal vibrations in the cloudy sunset. Steep stairs climb up to 60m high in the central tower (called Phra Prang) and reveal an astonishing view over the city and Chao Phraya River. Everything around is carved in stone with Chinese porcelain encrusted in delicate details, like fine piece of jewelry.
The temple viewed from the boat crossing the river
Wat Arun from the top
The Damnoen Floating market is one of the usual “must-sees” in Bangkok, and off course we wanted to explore the famous sights! To my own disappointment I found the experience quite disturbing! The scenery was vibrant and full of lush green, trees, and water. But the life was harsh, cruel and full of sorrow. You know how sometimes over visited places become somehow void of their own authenticity and reality. Like the flowing mass of tourists would wash away anything real and genuine, and leave behind a trail of empty places and money-hungry locals! Maybe it happened because we went on a weekend, maybe that was the reality, but it felt like the only reason that market was there was to get some money from the cash-cow tourists. Seeing the old ladies rowing the long heavy tourist boats made me shrivel with indignation. I tried picturing my own grandmother being forces to do so…it served as a good reminder that there are many places and ways one can help…
The boats filled with delicious fruits, vegetables and food
Old lady rowing

The canals
Episode 2 is soon to come!